Cities of the Dead

Indeed, crossing the threshold into a New Orleans cemetery, with tombs lining the walkways like buildings in a miniature metropolis - some edifices towering as high as 40 feet, others strewn with beads, voodoo relics and graffito - and walking silently in the midst of these somber tombs, guarded by hypnotic statues that gaze blankly upon the maze-like grounds; to even the most languid imagination, is like entering a "city of the dead." 

 

In early New Orleans, digging a six-foot hole to bury the dead was far from a simple task. For, gravediggers would soon have a hole almost filled to the brim with water because the area is situated below sea-level. As a result, a coffin would float when placed in the grave. To relieve this dilemma, large holes were bored into the bottoms of many of the coffins so water could enter quickly and force the coffin to sink without delay -- usually with the help of men with long wooden poles who would force the cumbersome object to the bottom. However, this was not a pleasant sight for the party in mourning. What's more, when New Orleans experienced its annual flooding, many caskets would end up “floating” through the streets. As you might imagine, this, too, was less than favorable. So, to eliminate this gruesome problem altogether, New Orleans decided to “bury” their dead above ground.

 

There are over 40 cemeteries in New Orleans. One of the city’s most popular is St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. It is here that the famous tomb of voodoo queen Marie Laveau is located. In following a centuries-old Spanish custom, the cemetery is surrounded by a stone wall. And within the wall are 12-ft.-high, 9-ft.-wide vaults, or “ovens” as they are often referred to because of their resemblance of baker’s ovens, which were used for multiple “burials” - often by impoverished families unable to afford private tombs. Although the tombs here are not quite as ornate as those in later-built cemeteries, (with the exception of Laveau's tomb, which is eerily decorated with graffiti and other voodoo relics), many famous New Orleanians rest here. Etienne de Bore, the city’s first mayor is buried here, as is Paul Morphy, who was world chess champion at age 21, just to name a few.

 

(Note: Magic Walking Tours (588-9693) provides guided walks of St. Louis No. 1 daily at 10:30am and 1:15pm. The tour consists of a very informative two hours. If you take the tour in the warmer months, bring bottled water and a hat or umbrella, for shade is scarce.)

 

Another famous site includes Metairie Cemetery, which may be considered the most beautiful and most unique graveyard not only in New Orleans, but anywhere in the world. The grounds are highly decorated with structures and architecture from around the world. And, of course, there are hundreds of interesting stories that surround these tombs like the great boundary walls themselves.

 

ST. Louis Cemetery No. 2, which was the fourth cemetery to be built in New Orleans, is also a fantastic site. It was laid out in two squares. Square Number 3 was set aside by the city principally for the burial of African-American Catholics. Such notable African-Americans as Oscar J. Dunn, members of the Sisters of the Holy Family, Arthur Esteves, Ernest "Dutch" Morial and many others are buried here. The iron ornaments and gates of the tombs were usually fashioned by African-American artisans, many of whom are also buried in the cemetery. Tours of this cemetery are conducted daily by the National Park Service. Call 589-2636.

 

New Orleans cemeteries have made an impression on many world-renowned travelers and authors as well as countless common visitors. For instance, in Life on the Mississippi, Mark Twain writes: “There is no architecture in New Orleans, except in the cemeteries.”